September 2026 blog from Tepoztlan-Vacation-Rentals.com

Sotol: A Success Story 800 years in the Making
 

by Jorge Lane Terrazas


Photography by author except as noted.

  Copyright © 2022 Jorge Lane Terrazas. All Rights of story and photographs reserved.

DISPLAYS BEST IN HORIZONTAL VIEW

Book Cover for Tepoztlan Birds

Tres Amigos: Desert Door, Flor del Desierto, and Hacienda de Chihuahua Sotol     


Introduction.


Sotol dates back over 800 years. The Anasazi, Tarahumara, Paquimé, and other indigenous peoples in northern Mexico and the states of Texas, New Mexico and Arizona, made this alcoholic beverage for ritual and curative purposes, and, one would assume, for pure pleasure too. Modern-day archeologists reportedly found receptacles with traces of what they identified as sotol at the Paquimé archaeological site on the southern end of my hometown, Casas Grandes, Chihuahua.


Sotol is made from varieties of dasylirion plants referred to as Sotol in Spanish and Desert Spoon in English. Contemporary botanists no longer consider sotol plants to belong to the same family as agave plants, which effectively differentiates sotol from tequila and mezcal.


A little known liquor in the United States and even in a great part of Mexico, sotol has been garnering international attention in recent years amongst a small but growing community of aficionados. Julia Roberts, the famous Hollywood actress, is credited with coining the phrase “Like Tequila, Love Sotol” and is said to offer tasting samples to guests. Lenny Kravitz, the American singer-songwriter, recently became the latest celebrity to launch a brand of alcohol, in this case Sotol Nocheluna in late 2022.


Below, this blog covers basic information about sotol, as well as a summary review of 10 sotol brands. And, if you are interested in story-telling, click on the down arrow in the text box below to open a short story about my early experiences with sotol.



  • Caught up in Sotol Bootlegging at Age 11. Really?

    I was eleven when I became an accomplice to bootlegging. Back then, sotol was still illegal in Mexico. This story is about my being sent to purchase clandestine sotol. The experience haunted me so much that I didn't dare take a single sip of the spirit until my 40s. This is the story about La Sotolera.



    La Sotolera


    Corky was gathered with several friends in the kitchen. That was never a good sign.


    “Corre a dónde la sotolera,” he told me, handing me an empty 750 milliliter bottle and some money.


    The sotolera was a gruff older woman named Doña Luz. She made sotol, the distilled spirit made from the Desert Spoon plant which dates back some 800 years to indigenous times in northern Mexico and parts of Texas, New Mexico and Arizona. 


    Sotol production in modern Mexico was prohibited by law until 1994, yet plenty of sotoleros would make and sell it clandestinely, much as was the case with “moonshine” in the United States.


    I dreaded having to go to Doña Luz even more than my chore of cleaning stockyards.


    Going to Doña Luz’s meant walking down dark unlit streets and, as I got closer to my destination, having to sneak past small groups of rowdy men leaning against walls as they drank the while away after having bought their sotol.  Some of them would say unkind things or try to spook me.


    Having been to her house a good number of times, I still got the same usual treatment and interrogation every time.


    She opened a small square Speakeasy window in her door, stared at me intently and asked, “¿Qué quieres, chavalo?”


    I repeated my father’s usual request.


    “¿Y quién es tu apá?” she demanded.


    After saying my father’s name, she inquired about my age fully knowing from prior visits that I was about 11 or 12 years old. 


    “¿Y por qué no vino él mismo?” she then asked.


    “No sé, Doña Luz.” 


    Displaying indignation that my father himself had not come, she sneered and told me to pass her the money and empty bottle through the Speakeasy window. After counting the money, she slammed shut the window’s two wood panels and locked them in place as though I was not to be trusted.


    Upon returning a few minutes later, she handed me the filled bottle and dispatched me with a stern directive, “Dile al buey de tu apá que esta es la última vez, que a la siguiente él mismo tiene que venir. Ahora vete, derecho a tu casa, ¿eh, chavalo?”


    Go away and straight home? No problem with that and the sooner the better, I muttered under my breath. 


    Her home brew was one of the foulest things I had ever smelled, even with the bottle capped. And the sight of cantankerous and aggressive men on the street tying one on was enough to frighten me as I did my best to avoid them as I rushed to get home.


    I was relieved once I had left the group of men well behind me. But then I heard someone shout "la chota." As I looked back, I saw the revelers were rapidly disbanding as two policemen arrived on the scene. Scared stiff, I hid behind a parked truck until the coast was clear and was able to continue my trek back home. 


    It was only years later that I recognized that Doña Luz’s slamming shut and locking the wood panels on the Speakeasy window was not personally directed at me and instead was just one small step in protecting herself from the law or from being robbed. 


    And what about her explicit orders for me to go straight home? Not solely good advice, but I came to realize that it was in her own unique way a genuine expression of concern for me.

     

    She wasn’t so bad after all, I came to conclude years later.


    Alas, she never did get my father to stop sending me for his bootleg sotol.


Picture of Vermilion Flycatcher

Doña Luz, a Town Distiller in the 1960's

Background Information


Sotol plants thrive in the wild and most commonly in arid and hot climates. Since sotol plants are abundant in the wild and harvesting the “heart” of the plant to make sotol does not kill the plant itself, most commercial sotol brands rely on naturally growing plants. As a distilled spirit, sotol, with at least one exception, is an artisanal product.


Following traditional methods, most sotol makers, known as “sotoleros” in Mexico, cook the harvested hearts using in-ground pits and firewood or volcanic rock, thus giving it an earthy and sometimes smoky appeal. Sotol is usually both softer than tequila and more agreeable than mezcal. On the nose it is unique: it brings the sensation of being in a desert setting following rainfall as you take in the aromas of wet vegetation and soil.


Following the centuries old traditions, some lines of sotol are cured with rattlesnake venom, which was thought to have curative qualities.


Sotol was illegal in Mexico until 1994. A denomination of origin was granted to the country in 2002, something that the United States, to this day, has refrained from recognizing.


Due to the small-scale artisanal nature of sotol, as well as traditional methods of production, nose and taste can vary a fair amount from batch to batch. This also means that after the last drop of your favorite sotol is gone, finding the same one again can be particularly difficult and even more so as it continues to gain in popularity.

Image of shot of sotol and agate gemstone from Chihuahua (Casas Grandes Region)


RATINGS


The following are summary ratings for 10 sotol brands that I have tried. I must confess that I am not an expert taster. Indeed, I am often either amazed or befuddled by experts who speak to the myriad of flavors in wines, spirits, and beer. I can't even start pretending that I can discern those myself. The spirit either works for me or it doesn't. It's that simple. I do lean towards peaty and silky qualities. Having said this, all sotol in the reviews below range from 3 stars (good) to 5 (excellent).


Where available, I list the name of the distiller of the sotol, or "maestro sotolero" in Spanish. Sotoleros often make sotol under contract rather than producing it under their own brand name. Nonetheless, one name, Gerardo Ruelas, keeps popping up across a wide gamut of sotol brands as you will see below.  Ruelas is today one of the most renowned sotoleros on either side of the border.


Sotol Hacienda de Chihuahua - Reposado

The commercial mainstay of them all, Hacienda de Chihuahua is recognized as the largest and most influential brand of sotol. As such, it is not an artisanal product and the heart of the sotol plant is not cooked in the traditional ground pit and firewood or volcanic rock methods. Hacienda's sotol is consistently similar from batch to batch. For newbies and those that prefer libations on the lighter side, it represents a good introduction to sotol given its lighter aroma and flavors. Call this one "sotol lite." That's not necessarily a bad thing. I have also tried Hacienda's añejo line, which is aged for over 12 months, but found that it lost too much of the earthiness I have come to associate with sotol.


Rating for Reposado line: 4.0

Aging: Aged from two months and up to one year

Proof: 76%

Production Location: Chihuahua

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion wheeler


Flor del Desierto - Veneno



The label attracted my attention:  “veneno orgánico” (organic poison) with drawings of a snake and the classic skull and bones. It boasts being cured with rattlesnake venom. “Gimmicky,” I thought, “but gotta try this.” 


My first reaction was that it was significantly earthier than Sotol Hacienda de Chihuahua, as well as peaty --- very peaty; like really, really peaty, but with a silky sensation on the palate, natural complexity and well rounded. Oh, and did I mention smoky?


Rating for Veneno Orgánico: 5.0

Proof: 90%

Production Location: Chihuahua

Sotolero: Gerardo Ruelas

Aged for an unspecified period of time, but I suspect between 2 and 12 months

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion leiophyllum


You may have to plan a trip to Mexico for this one as it cannot be commercially imported or sold in the US due to restrictions on products cured with rattlesnake venom.


Desert Door Texas Sotol

A sotol distillery in Texas? Are you serious? Yes, indeed. And, in true western movie fashion, this one will knock you flat on your back.


Barney, a good friend, took me there.  While packing quite a punch, it also has a good measure of the earthy qualities characteristic of sotol. A bit too strong for my taste, but I do have to say  it was an authentic and unadulterated sotol experience.  I was certain it had neither been aged nor seen the inside of a wood barrel, but that did not deter me from asking the bartender/owner about the aging process. "Should I start from the time the truck came in with the harvested hearts?” “Sure,” I replied, playing along. "Today’s Friday and, let's see, the truck came in on Tuesday,” he said chuckling before adding, “there ain't no aging.” Barney and I appreciated his candor and his good-natured sense of humor even more. So much so that we ordered another round.


Alas, a short few years later in early 2026, Desert Door Texas Sotol went out of business, although some stores still have remaining bottles on the shelves as of now.


Rating for Desert Door Texas Sotol: 3.0

Proof: 80%.

Not aged.

Production location: Texas

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion Texanum


Sotol Coyote - Víbora

An alluring sotol, light in flavor and a silky quality. Cured with snake venom.


Rating for Sotol Coyote - Víbora: 4.5


Proof: 90%.

Aging: Unspecified. Judging by the color and palate, likely aged between 2 and 12 months

Production Location: Chihuahua

Sotolero: Gerardo Ruelas (according to various sources)

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion Leiophyllum

Sotol Oro de Coyame

A simple sotol with sweetness and slightly silky body. Decent complexity. Won a gold medal at the Sip Awards in 2021.  Lower pricing than many others. Considered to be one of the largest artisanal brands of sotol.


Rating for Sotol Oro de Coyame: 3.75


Proof: 96%.

Aging: Joven. Likely aged for up to 2 months

Production Location: Chihuahua

Sotolero: Gerardo Ruelas

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion wheeler

Sotol Flor del Desierto - Desierto

Not to be confused with Flor del Desierto's Veneno Orgánico in the dark bottle, this white labelled bottle does not contain snake venom. It also does not have the strong peaty flavor of its sibling. This is a strong and peppery sotol, but in a good way.


Rating for Sotol Flor del Desierto - Desierto label: 4.0


Proof: 94%.

Aging: Joven. Aged for up to 2 months

Production Location: Chihuahua

Sotolero: Gerardo Ruelas

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion Leiophyllum

Señor Sotol

This entry from the state of Durango, is made by sotolero Juan Manuel Conde using Dasylirion Texanum, Cedrosanum, and Wheeleri. The description on the back of the bottle speaks to wild sotol harvested by hand, cooking in an underground pit with volcanic rock, fermentation in open-air wooden vats, and distillation in small copper stills. A simple sotol with sweetness and flavor on the lighter side.


Rating for Señor Sotol: 3.50


Proof: 86%.

Aging: Blanco (not aged)

Production Location: Durango

Sotolero: Juan Manuel Conde

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion Texanum, Cedrosanum, and Wheeleri

Tall Texan Sotol - Cedro

Notwthstanding that Tall Texan Distilling was named after a nefarious outlaw, Cedro is a legitimate, straight-shooting, and enjoyable sotol. While headquartered in Sanderson, a small West Texas town about 27 miles from the border with Mexico as the crow flies, Gerardo Ruelas from Aldama Chihuahua is listed as the sotolero maestro. This sotol has a good hint of complexity and smoothness.   


Rating for Tall Texan Sotol - Cedro: 3.75


Proof: 88%.

Aging: Unspecified. Perhaps some aging of up to 2 months

Production Location: Chihuahua/Texas

Sotolero: Gerardo Ruelas

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion Cedrosanum

Tall Texan Sotol - Leio

Tall Texan Distilling's second offering has a slightly higher proof than its sibling. As is the case with Cedro, Gerardo Ruelas also serves as master sotolero. On the palate, Leio is more straight-forward and somewhat astringent, which some folks prefer in their sotol. 


Rating for Tall Texan Sotol - Leio: 3.25


Proof: 90%.

Aging: Unspecified, but likely unnaged or aged for up to 2 months

Production Location: Chihuahua/Texas

Sotolero: Gerardo Ruelas

Sotol plant variety: Dasylirion Leiophyllum

Nocheluna Sotol

Nocheluna is singer-songwriter Lenny Kravitz's celebrity sotol, a collaboration with experts including Lalo Arrieta, Ricardo Pico, and Iván Saldaña. Authentic, drinkable sotol. Unlike all the other sotol lines reviewed this blog, it is unfortunately near impossible to pour from Nocheluna bottles without some spillage.


Rating for Nocheluna Soto: 3.0


Proof: 86%.

Aging: A Blanco sotol, likely meaning unnaged

Production Location: Chihuahua

Sotolero: Iván Saldaña

Sotol plant variety: Unspecified, but most likely Dasylirion Leiophyllum